Friday, March 28, 2008

Small Happiness


The birth of a son is cause for celebration;
the birth of a daughter is only a "small happiness."

--John Bryan Starr, Understanding China

For one such as this,
the pangs are no less
nor the first breath
a lesser wonder,

but such a joy's
outstripped by sorrow,
his disapproval,
the scorn of bitter elders.

Such is the small happiness,
the kind that sends her
to the corner with an infant
dressed in swaddling clothes.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Guihua Gongyuan

At Guihua Gongyuan
old men fix time to string
and let it fly.

From my perch a mile north,
I watch flight take form—
bats, birds, demons, dragons

rising above tiled roofs,
fettered yet borne by wind
and in pursuit of cloud.

If old men with sore bones
and weary hearts can soar
in winter to such heights,

where might I go, with hair
still scarcely touched by snow?

Saturday, March 15, 2008

Real Fake

Any day in which one nearly gets bamboozled a dozen times in an hour is a day worth remembering to me. I had such a day and such an hour on an outing to Shanghai last summer. It began with a walk along Nanjing Lu with a couple of American students. There, we learned how it feels to be human magnets, or else thick rolls of 100-yuan notes with heads and limbs sticking out. Every street hawker of wristwatches and wheeled shoes came our way, making the same tired pitch in one or two English words. One man stood apart in diversifying his stock, though, unfortunately for him, this approach yielded no better luck: “Wristwatch? T-Shirt? Massage? Sex?” How’s that for one-stop shopping?

Next, three young Chinese people approached—a tall young man with a warm smile and a twinkle in his eye that I recognized as ironic only in retrospect, and his two vivacious female companions.

“We are art students from Beijing University,” one of the girls said. “There is an art festival in Shanghai this week, and we have an exhibit in a gallery on this street.”

“It is our first exhibit,” said the young man. “Won’t you please have a look? We are so curious to know what people will think of our paintings.”

We had nearly an hour to kill before we needed to meet up with our group, and they were such nice and polite young people and so excited about their artistic debut. What harm could there be in having a look?

Nanjing Lu is a pedestrian street, and, on a sunny summer afternoon, it’s a great place to get a sense of just how crowded Chinese cities can be. It would have also been a great place to get lost, but our new friend was taller than almost any of the other 10,000 black-headed people walking about, and we followed him closely as he cut through the crowd. Somehow, two policemen in a golf cart managed to weave through the mass of flesh and pull up beside our friend. The two girls vanished in an instant, diving deep into the anonymity of that human sea. Both officers spoke to our companion for a moment, and then one broke away to have a word with us.

“Do you know this man?” he asked.

“No,” I said. “We just met him.”

“This man is not an art student. He’s a con artist. He will take you to a gallery full of ridiculously overpriced paintings. Once you’re inside, you’ll find the door bolted and guarded by a muscle-bound man with a pair of nunchaku and a penchant for relieving nervous tension by pummeling foreigners. Your ticket out will be either to buy a painting or take a beating.”

By this point, Ian and I had turned considerably paler than we already are; Jheff had the advantage of possessing dark skin that masked his emotions. The other cop and the tall man were seated in the golf cart, talking animatedly. Our “friend” turned around to glance at us, and it was only then that I realized what I had taken for a smile was actually a sneer. On Nanjing Lu, we discovered, not only the wristwatches were fakes. The same went for friends, too.

We continued our walk, and, within thirty minutes, a half-dozen other groups of aspiring artists offered to lead us to the fate the policeman had described. Finally, we turned around and headed back toward the Bund, having had more than our fill of Nanjing Lu.

Perhaps it was our near-run escape from an art gallery beating that led Jheff to have some vindictive fun on the Bund by bargaining over a wristwatch he had no intention of buying. He talked the vendor down to a preposterous price—about $10—and then turned away.

“That can’t be real,” he said. “A Rolex for $10? You’ve got to be kidding.”

“”Not real,” the man pleaded. “Real fake. Fake real. Real fake.”

We chuckled as we departed, seeing the phrase as a humorous absurdity. However, when I returned to Suzhou and narrated the day’s events to a Chinese friend, she told me that the expression was not absurd at all but in fact communicated an important distinction. On the Chinese black market, there are real fakes and fake fakes. A real fake may not really be a Rolex, but it will tell the time. A fake fake will at best make you late to an important meeting and at worst will burn the skin on your wrist when it oozes acid. Real fake designer jeans may last about as long as their legitimate siblings, while fake fakes will dissolve into threads and strip you to your underwear on the street the first time that you wear them. A real fake person may not really want to be your friend but intends you no real harm. A fake fake, in contrast, will smile as he leads you to ruin. Thus, for the average Chinese person, learning to distinguish between real fakes and fake fakes is an essential life skill.

Among the many pirated goods in China, none are more numerous than DVDs. Most pirated discs fall somewhere in the middle on the real fake-fake fake continuum. A purely fake fake DVD won’t play at all if it doesn’t melt down your hard drive, but even the best real fakes are imperfect imitations and have something wrong. Problems occur most frequently in the packaging. Perhaps due to the language barrier, the producers of pirated English DVDs have great difficulty matching up the credits on the jacket with the actual film. Consequently, your pirated copy of Schindler’s List may display the cast of Meet the Parents and include among its catalogue of special features the promise of hilarious outtakes. The jacket of Nanking—a recent documentary about Japanese atrocities in China in the winter of 1937-1938—suggests that the disc offers a “never-before seen alternate ending.” Unfortunately, for the victims of the “Rape of Nanking,” history affords no such opportunities.

Even when the packaging happens to connect with the right film, the content choices are often questionable. The jacket for Atonement lists the proper cast but includes as a description of the film a user posting from a movie fan web site: “My brain tends to turn to mush in the presence of greatness. This makes it difficult when I want to write about something that I thought was truly great. It is so much easier to write about something that is rubbish.” Needless to say, I watched the film despite rather than because of this unhelpful blurb. But what do I have to complain about anyway? For about seventy-five cents, I viewed on DVD a fine film that had just begun to run in theaters back home.

Typically, I would not seek out pirated goods and do believe that the artists who make films deserve a fair cut of the sales. In China, however, it’s actually rather difficult to find non-pirated discs. Even Auchan—a large supermarket similar to Wal Mart—has bins stuffed with thousands of DVDs priced so low that they surely must be pirated. When Americans hear the words “black market,” they envision places that can be reached only in darkness by boat or can be entered only by people wearing trench coats with the collars turned up. That is not the case at all in Suzhou. On Shi Quan Jie, the tourist street where I live, there are more than a half-dozen well-lighted places selling pirated DVDs in plain view, with each disc priced at less than one US dollar. Apparently, the government has periodic crackdowns on such operations, but there are no real consequences. The shops stay closed for a week or two, and then it’s back to business as usual.

Most of my Chinese friends see no problem with piracy. It is a simple matter of cost to them. One friend, in fact, was genuinely perplexed by the high price of DVDs in America. I explained that the price was so high because many people take a share of the proceeds when a legal disc is sold, while the pirated discs earn money only for the copier and the store. This seemed to make an impression on her, but the impression didn’t run very deep. By the end of the conversation, she was telling me how I could avoid paying such high prices for movies when I return to America by downloading them for free on Chinese web sites. I’m sure I will not do this, but while in China, I’ve learned to do as the Chinese do. I’ve made my peace with the real fakes; it’s the fake fakes that I seek to avoid.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Great Walls of China


Before I built a wall I’d ask to know
What I was walling in or walling out.


--Robert Frost, “Mending Wall”


Recently, I returned from my second excursion to Beijing. After my first visit in late October, I had a conversation on the bus to Wenzheng College with a Chinese teacher, and this exchange ensured that I would have to go back to the capital during my time in China. “Did you visit the Great Wall?” my colleague asked. He looked at me with profound disappointment as I explained that the weather had been so foggy all weekend that it would have made little sense to take the relatively long trek north of Beijing to the wall. “Well,” he said after a long pause, “you are not a real man until you have been to the Great Wall.”

Today, I can report with pride that, as I approach my fortieth birthday, I’ve became a real man at last, at least by the Chinese measure. I have climbed the long ascent at Mutianyu to the crest of the wall and walked for hours on stones that weave through the mountains like a twisted spine. In winter, tourists are sparse, and once one passes through the stands of dispirited souls selling trinkets without luck at the base of the hill, it’s actually possible to take a contemplative walk on top of the wall. As I walked, I pondered what I’d read about the wall before coming to Beijing. Somewhere between two and three million men died during the long history of the wall’s construction. Surely, the impressed laborers who built the wall felt no investment in the project, but many gave their lives for it nevertheless. At its peak of military use during the Ming dynasty, more than a million men were garrisoned along the wall’s 4000 miles of stone. Was I walking in the footsteps of such masons and soldiers?

The short—and literal—answer is, no. There is, in fact, no Great Wall in the singular. Instead, it would be more accurate to speak of great walls. The first incarnations of the Great Wall were not even erected in the same place where I stood in the winter sun. The wall constructed in the 3rd century B.C.E. under the Qin dynasty was farther to the north, and little of it now remains—an immense effort of men swallowed into the earth, as if it had never been. Thus, when people speak of the Great Wall being more than 2000 years old, the claim is in dire need of qualification—and nearly as much of a myth as the assertion that the wall can be seen from the moon. The Great Wall that draws crowds of visitors today was not built until the 15th century during the Ming dynasty. Yet even here, when we walk along the wall at places like Badaling and Mutianyu, we trod on a reconstruction built not to keep the northern invaders out but to draw the tourists in. We may not like to be reminded by the trinket hawkers that we are mere consumers of a packaged past, but that is the true state of things. Even if we don’t buy the t-shirts and postcards they’re selling, our ticket to the Great Wall purchases an illusion.

Be that as it may, the Great Wall is a glorious illusion. Of all the places I have traveled, only Machu Picchu in Peru surpasses the wall’s fusion of natural and man-made splendor. A large part of the wonder of the wall is that human beings could have managed to build anything at all given the rugged terrain, yet the Chinese had the audacity to construct a stone partition across the county’s vast northern border. The wall rises and falls innumerable times, conquering the topography in Taoist fashion by yielding to it. Yet the wall, like the Eiffel Tower in France, has become a beloved national icon only in retrospect. With regard to its original purpose, it was a dismal failure. The old wall didn’t prevent the Mongols from storming south and conquering China in the 13th century, nor did the Ming wall fare better in staving off the Manchus in the 17th century. Consequently, in historical terms, the wall is a monument to futility more than anything else. How then, did the wall become an enduring symbol of China?

Perhaps the answer lies in the tension between China’s view of itself and its attitude toward the rest of the world. The Chinese word for China, Zhongguo, literally translates as “middle country,” and China has a longstanding cultural tendency to see itself at the center of the universe. There is nothing unusual in this, for anthropologists have noted the presence of such ethnocentrism across cultures. What is unique to China is how long its cultural patterns endured and the extent to which its sense of superiority was well founded. The latter point is best illustrated by what transpired when the Mongols and Machus breeched the Great Wall and conquered China. Both northern invaders reached the same conclusion: there was no better way to govern China than the Chinese way, and the Confucian system of governance that had evolved for well over a millennium continued on despite the dynastic shift into foreign hands. The wall had proved ineffectual in keeping the “barbarians” out but much more successful in sealing in the culture of China. The invaders had triumphed militarily, but, culturally, the positions of victor and vanquished were inverted. To rule China, the Mongols and Manchus strove to become de facto Chinese.

Only in the 19th century did the Chinese confront foes whose sense of cultural superiority rivaled their own, and these invaders came from the east by sea, where the Great Wall offered no resistance. By this time, the medieval wall could not have presented much of an obstacle to the Western powers and their modern weaponry anyhow. The physical wall had become irrelevant, but the Great Wall’s psychological twin persisted much longer. Modern Chinese history is, to a large extent, the story of a great and ancient power coming to terms with modernity and reinventing itself to meet the demands of a changing world. One response to perceived threats from without is to retreat within, to seek refuge behind great walls of the mind. However, a modern nation can hide behind walls for only so long before it begins to suffocate itself.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, reformers such Zhang Zhidong sought to encourage both the adaptation of Western technological innovation and the preservation of Confucian values. His was a mission at cross-purposes. The revolution of 1911 that ended the long history of dynastic China and sent the country into decades of social turmoil also made it clear that a nation cannot move backwards and forwards simultaneously. This tumultuous period did not end until the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949 brought Mao to power and reinforced the psychic wall that ran not just along the northern border but around all of China as well. Mao may have opened diplomatic channels with the US as part of a triangulation strategy against the Soviet Union, but, in doing so, he unwittingly began the process of dismantling the last incarnation of the Great Wall, a wall without stones that has proved to be the most durable wall of them all. Current practices in China such as Internet and other media censorship suggest that the dismantling is far from complete, but, like the old Qin wall, Mao’s psychic wall is nearly in ruins now.

As I walked along the Great Wall, I thought about this complex history and of how, in less than the course of my own lifetime, the very act of a foreigner taking such a stroll on the wall had gone from unthinkable to uncommon to commonplace. In the thirty-odd years since the death of Mao, China has changed from an impoverished and insular country whose isolation rivaled that of North Korea into a vibrant nation with cosmopolitan cities and seemingly limitless potential for economic growth. I don’t think that visiting the Great Wall really did much for my masculinity, but it surely filled me with a sense of awe. The awe stemmed both from a brush against China’s dynastic past as well as the awareness that the China I inhabit today has transformed in ways that almost no one could have imagined, much less have predicted. The Great Wall is now nothing but a tourist stop, and, as I stood on its reconstructed towers and stared out at the scenery, it was as if I could catch a glimpse across the 21st century. There were no real barriers in sight.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Day of the Eunuchs, or How the Chinese Must Have Discovered the World

Columbus Day is already held in low regard, if not contempt, by many in the United States. Back in 1992, the 500th anniversary of Columbus’s first voyage to the “new world” prompted much discussion about the meaning of the European eras of discovery and colonization and their impact on the indigenous peoples of the Americas. Those towing the traditional line cast Columbus in a heroic light, while his detractors portrayed him as a villain who initiated an age of genocide. Both sides, however, concurred on at least one simple fact that every schoolboy thinks he knows: Columbus discovered the Americas. But did he?

According to British author Gavin Menzies, he most definitely did not. Instead, Menzies asserts, the Chinese, some seventy before Columbus, set out on grand voyages of discovery from 1421 through 1423 and became the first to visit and chart on maps not only North and South America but Antarctica, New Zealand, and Australia as well. If Menzies is right, we should wipe Columbus Day from the calendar and begin celebrating the Day of the Eunuchs instead. This new holiday would belatedly honor the eunuch admirals who commanded nearly all of the ships of the treasure fleets of Zhu Di, the third Ming emperor whose desire to bring unknown lands into the Chinese system of tribute was purportedly the driving force behind the discovery voyages that Menzies describes.

Menzies develops his stunning thesis in great detail in the book 1421: The Year China Discovered the World. Not surprisingly, the book has aroused some strong opposition, as might be expected from a text that aspires to topple more than half a millennium of received wisdom. In his postscript, Menzies equates any criticism of his thesis with a knee-jerk defense of tradition, but that is not necessarily so. For this reader, the ideas presented in 1421 are fascinating to contemplate but never convincing. Instead, reading 1421 has taken me on my voyage of intellectual discovery that includes an exploration of historical epistemology and of the sometimes-nebulous divide between believing and knowing.

The most serious obstacle to accepting Menzies’s claims as historical truth is the lack of documentary evidence. History is, to a large extent, inter-textual; it is built on a foundation of words. The validity of a secondary text depends on the strength of its primary sources. In this sense, 1421 is a structure of epic proportions build on a foundation of emptiness. Simply put, Menzies provides no primary source evidence because such sources do not exist, or at least have not been found to date. European explorers like Columbus left a wealth of first-hand accounts charting the course of their journeys and describing their experiences. We know that the European voyages of discovery took place because their existence is sealed in words. Menzies offers nothing comparable, and for this reason his narrative falls short of the standards of history. Words are like watchers in the forest when the proverbial tree falls. The dearth of primary-source evidence doesn’t disprove Menzies’s account, but without such evidence, his narrative is at best something less than history, something akin to a tree falling in an un-peopled forest.

Menzies does provide an explanation for the lack of primary source evidence. In 1421, shortly after lead admiral Zheng He and the other eunuch commanders set sail, a terrible fire destroyed much of the Forbidden City that Zhu Di had built when he moved the Chinese capital from Nanjing to Beijing. The Chinese viewed such a catastrophe as an omen, a sign of divine disapproval for an emperor whose ambitions had over-reached into hubris. In response, Zhu Di withdrew his support for the discovery voyages and suspended all foreign travel after the close of the present mission. Zheng He returned to China more than two years later to find himself at the head of a fleet without purpose. The following year, Zhu Di died, and his successors only extended the insular and isolationist policies that characterized the last years of Zhu Di’s reign. For the succeeding emperors, however, it was not enough to lock China in time and place for the present and future; any attempts to reach out to the world in the past had to be expunged from the record as well. In this manner, Menzies accounts for how the world’s greatest voyages of discovery could have vanished without documentary trace. Notwithstanding the unlikelihood that the emperors’ long reach could have extended to every public and private account of the voyages, offering a plausible explanation for why there are no primary sources is quite distinct from having them in hand.

Lacking the primary sources that are generally the foundation of history, Menzies turns to other kinds of evidence. Most extensively he relies upon maps. Menzies asserts that the European explorers, no matter how daring and brave, were neither sailing into uncharted waters nor discovering anything new. Instead, they were following in the wake of their Chinese predecessors. To support this claim, Menzies presents a series of 15th century world maps that appear to chart landmasses prior to the dates of their discovery by Europeans. In addition, he cites passages from explorers’ journals that suggest they sailed with cartographical guides to the places they were later credited with discovering. In the Internet discussions of 1421, some of Menzies’s critics argue that the cartographic evidence is the product of either forgeries or Menzies’s misreading of genuine maps.

Due to my own cartographical ignorance, I am not equipped to enter this debate. Even so, I do recognize a logical problem in the way that Menzies uses maps in 1421. The basic argument is this: 1) Europeans relied upon preexisting maps in their voyages of “discovery”; 2) someone must have preceded the Europeans to create the maps; 3) the Chinese had the resources and technological expertise required to embark on such voyages in the first half of the 15th century; 4) therefore, the Chinese must have discovered the world. There is a leap of logic between the argument’s third and forth steps, and this leap occurs precisely at the divide between believing and knowing. The conclusion is, in the end, a non-sequitur, for, without ample primary source evidence, it does not follow, no matter how tantalizing Menzies’s reading of the maps may be. This pattern repeats throughout 1421 and is what makes the book so exasperating to read. Its claims are often plausible enough that one can’t dismiss them as mere counterfactual or fantasy, but they are never grounded deeply enough in evidence to be acceptable as fact.

Beyond the cartographical, Menzies provides several other categories of support, all of which is interesting to ponder but none of which rises above reasonable doubt. The Chinese, Menzies claims, left physical traces of their presence in disparate parts of the world—from shipwrecks and stone observatory towers to shards of Ming-era pottery and pieces of jade jewelry. In addition, many plant and animal species native to one continent turn up in others, and Menzies attributes this, too, to the Chinese voyages of discovery. Finally, in perhaps the boldest claim of the book, Menzies asserts that the Chinese not only were the first to discover the Americas; they were the first to colonize it as well. He cites passages in European explorers’ journals that describe meetings with Asiatic people in the Americas quite distinct from their indigenous neighbors and insists that DNA testing is beginning to show unequivocally a Chinese presence in places like Mexico and Peru and the Great Plains and American Southwest.

Menzies does cite studies to support the DNA claims, but I am ill-equipped to judge the validity of the studies. For other claims, he relies on either antiquated sources or none at all. For example, in the postscript, Menzies alludes to three jade pieces found in Central America that have been determined to be “unquestionably” of Chinese origin. However, anyone who follows the endnote will discover that this claim is based on a chemical evaluation conducted in 1886. I know nothing about the nature of chemical evaluation processes used in 1886 beyond the fact that no one but Menzies has likely relied upon them for anything in more than a hundred years. Then, in one of the most bizarre assertions of 1421, Menzies states that Navajo elders “to this day understand Chinese.” Having visited the Navajo reservation and heard the language spoken and knowing that Chinese dialects display such regional variation that a person from Suzhou sometimes can’t understand someone from Nanjing (two cites in the same province), I find it laughable to imagine that a Chinese speaker could show up in Gallop, New Mexico, and find a single receptive ear. Most alarmingly, Menzies cites no source for the claim. Such shoddy documentation alone would be enough to sink 1421 deep in the mire of doubt. As it stands, it only pulls the book a little deeper down.

Lacking adequate support, Menzies is left with gaps that he fills with conjecture. Early in my reading of the book, I began to underline the past conditional verb phrases that appear with great frequency: might have been, must have been, would have been. Eventually, I gave up the effort, for such phrases recur so often that it was becoming exhausting to note them in every instance. More troublingly, they regularly appear in passages laced with descriptive language designed to leave the impression that the scene is something more than speculation. Here’s an example:

Seamen would have worked frozen and soaked to the skin and shouted themselves hoarse in a vain attempt to be heard amid the shrieking of the wind through the rigging, the creaks and groans of timbers as the hull flexed and twisted in a swell like none other on earth, and the roar and hiss of waves breaking over the bows and foaming away through the scuppers. The prow would have dragged itself free of one giant wave only to bury itself immediately in the next. There would have been little respite for the men below decks, their clothes permanently sodden and the pitching and heaving of the ship so severe that sleep would have been all but impossible. (183-184)

The combination of such concrete sensory details with such uncertain verb constructions strikes me as a sign of intellectual dishonesty and an attempt to seduce with words. The vivid descriptions invite us to experience a scene on a voyage that the verbs acknowledge may or may not have transpired. It seems that the seduction was quite successful, for, as the book cover proudly proclaims, 1421 became an international bestseller. However, I’m not sure where to file this book on my shelf. “Might have beens,” no matter how frequently or artfully employed, never add up to “was,” and history is a discipline that traffics in “was.”

In time, perhaps Menzies’s thesis will be proven true, and the history of the world will be revised accordingly. Based on 1421, however, the time for such a radical revision is not yet upon us. Menzies alludes often to the book’s companion web site where corroborating evidence will be presented and updated, but, as a book, it must stand or fall on its merits in the printed form. As history, 1421 falls short. Consequently, America still tilts toward Europe on its historical axis, and we need not sweep Columbus Day from our calendars but can continue to note its passage each October with a shrug, a sneer, or smile. And for now, at least, we can hold onto the view that, figuratively and literally, it took balls to discover the “new world.” The Day of the Eunuchs has not yet arrived.

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Jiu Gui

Jiu Gui,
the Chinese say—
wine ghost—
he who has squeezed
the fruit of life
into a cask
and made of rice
a bitter vintage.

No hunger dwells
within him now
but swells of thirst,
the whetting of his tongue,
the wedding of his throat
to wine—

four beauties danced
around his sheets unsheathed
and could not wake
his notice.

His bones have shrunk
to slender poles;
his skin has thinned
into transparency—

this squatter’s tent
his form becomes,
hollowing out,
pickled within,
housing a voice
that speaks two words:

fill me.

Old Woman Selling Greens at a Suzhou Bazaar


Time could not weather
leather so harsh—
a face with lines
like wizened rings
cut into trunks,

hands
calloused and bronzed
and stronger than
small bones suppose
or credulity allows,

eyes
unflinching and dark,
narrowed to pass
unvarnished light.